Long before the first light bulb, "miraculously" illuminated our
lives-almost everyone owned a root cellar. The root cellar kept
apples, carrots, turnips, potatoes and squash, through the winter,
sustaining the family through those cold and bleak months. Salt pork
and smoked meats, milk, cream, butter and cheese were also kept in
the root cellar to stay cool and fresh, ready for use.
It is thought that the first root cellars originated in the United
Kingdom before colonial times. Immigrants then brought with them
their country skills, including the functional and practical root
cellar.
An earth-friendly, root cellar is the natural choice for the
homesteader, whether or not you're, "on the grid." The low-tech root
cellar, will keep your harvest fresh for two months or longer,
depending on what you store, without ozone-depleting refrigeration,
or electricity. In addition to the above mentioned foods, you can
store your canned tomatoes, peaches, pears, green beans, peas, fish
and meat, in fact, any type of canned foods in your root cellar. They
will provide a pleasing array of natural colors; the result of a
summer's hard work and patience, all neatly lined up on shelves.
There are several types of root cellar and different ways in which to
construct one. There's the Hatch Cellar, Hillside Cellar and the
Above Ground Cellar.
The Hatch Cellar usually consists of a large hole dug into the ground
then lined with rocks. The floor is left in its natural state, just
plain dirt. Beams and plywood sheets are securely laid over the hole,
with a hatch door incorporated into the ceiling/floor, along with the
installation of a ladder for safe and easy access. A shed is then
built over the top of the cellar, overlapping the walls by about
three feet each side.
The Hillside Cellar is dug out of a hillside, lined with rocks, and
then a plywood ceiling is attached to overhead support beams. This
type of cellar has a regular insulated door to walk through.
The Above Ground Cellar is made from a wood frame, covered thickly
with sod on the outside, lined inside with rocks, with a regular
insulated door at the front.
Shelves are installed in each type of cellar, three inches away from
the walls, to allow air to circulate freely and inhibit the growth of
molds. An exhaust pipe is installed through the ceiling to allow hot
air to escape from the cellar. Installation of an intake pipe ensures
fresh, cold air to enter, forcing the hot air to escape from the
exhaust pipe. You must try to maintain an ideal temperature and
humidity ratio to provide optimum freshness for your bountiful
harvest.
Humidity is a major factor in your root cellar, whatever type you
decide to install. Humidity will vary, depending on which part of the
world you're located. If you're located in the arid, southwestern
area of the United States for instance, you will experience high
temperatures and low humidity. This will need adjusting with a pan of
water on the floor of your cellar and possibly damp towels over your
bushel baskets, to raise the humidity and prevent your harvest from
shriveling. If, on the other hand, you live in the tropical regions
of Australia, you will be faced with both high temperatures and high
humidity. These extremes call for a deep, insulated root cellar with
steps leading down to an insulated entrance door. As most of the
harvest in your root cellar, will stay fresh in moderate temperatures
and humidity--it will spoil quickly, given too high temperatures and
humidity.
Preparing your Harvest for the Root Cellar
FRUITS AND ETHYLENE GAS
Fruits like apples, plums, pears, peaches and tomatoes release
ethylene gas in storage, and while small amounts will not affect
other stored foods; it speeds their aging process, and makes some
vegetables like carrots, bitter.
To store fruit successfully, only pick the best of the bunch; neither
too ripe, nor under ripe. Use the bruised fruits for sauces and for
stewing or fruit salad. Wrap individually, each piece of fruit and
place carefully in cardboard or wooden boxes. An alternative method
would be to bury the fruit in boxes filled with sand. Be gentle, as
one bad apple will spoil the whole bunch!
IN GARDEN, EXTENDED STORAGE
Mulching root vegetables thickly with pine needles, straw or other
suitable mulching materials whilst they're still in the garden, will
stop them from freezing and keep them for up to a month. At which
time, such veggies as carrots, can be transferred to your root cellar.
POTATOES
When the green tops on your potatoes die off, the potatoes can be
harvested. If you are experiencing hot weather at this time, you may
want to keep them in the ground for a few weeks longer, until
temperatures go down to 60-70F. The potatoes can then be dug up and
cured in the shade for two weeks. Do not cure in the sun, as this
will produce toxic, solanines (nightshade). This will turn your
tubers green, and harmful to eat-especially for babies and pregnant
or nursing moms; so please cure in shade only. Just remove excess
dirt from the potatoes, as a layer of dirt helps extend their life;
on NO account, wash them! When your potatoes are cured, you can move
them to the root cellar. They keep best with high humidity of 90%, in
a temperature of 38-40F. This temperature slows respiration, delay
their sprouting, and will ensure the starch doesn't convert to sugar.
Store them in a bin or a pile covered with straw or burlap--NOT
plastic, to stop water condensing on the potatoes. These potatoes
will now keep from four to six months in your handy root cellar.
PUMPKINS
Pumpkins should be harvested with a few inches of stem attached to
help prevent pathogens from entering the pumpkin through the cut
scar. Pumpkins should be left to sit outside for a few days to harden
their shells. They will then be ready for the cellar. 65-70% humidity
is perfect for these vegetables and cool temperatures, above freezing
are ideal. Your pumpkins will now keep for up to six months.
ONIONS AND GARLIC
Onions and garlic are ready to pull out of your garden, when the tops
are dead and brown. They need to be cured, however, by tying or
braiding their tops together, and hanging them up outside to cure.
The porch or a handy tree can be used to serve this purpose. A few
weeks of curing and they will be ready to hang up in your root cellar
or somewhere cool-ideally 60-70% humidity with a temperature of 35-
40F.
APPROXIMATE STORAGE TIMES:
Cabbage.......3-4 months
Brussels Sprouts.....3-5 weeks
Jerusalem Artichokes..1-2 months
Carrots........4-6 months
Chinese Cabbage...1-2 months
Eggplant........1-2 weeks
Parsnips........1-2 months
Rutabagas......2-4 months
Squash........4-6months
Radishes........2-3 months
Tomatoes.......1-2 months
Cauliflower......2-4 weeks
Broccoli.........1-2 weeks
Beets........4-5 months
Pumpkins......5-6 months
Potatoes.........4-6 months
Turnips.......4-6 months
Although the above stated storage times are approximate, check
periodically for spoilage.
Copyright 2001 © Victoria Ries All Rights Reserved
About the Author
Victoria Ries is a freelance writer living in the rural mountains of
Arizona.
She has been writing since age nine and has been multi published in print
and online. Her newsletter, Rural Country Living, is especially for country
folk. Visit her at http://www.ruralcountryliving.com